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Awash with colour and noise at the Estadi Olympic
Photo:
Eoin Mundow/Cleva Media |
Think of Barcelona and what springs to
mind? The city's famous unfinished Gaudi cathedral, the
buzzing central street of La Rambla, or perhaps an image of
Lionel Messi netting his latest dazzling effort for Catalan
footballing giants?
Not for me, not any more.
For me Barcelona will now be forever
linked with rugby, and that's not a sentence I ever expected
to be writing.
When Perpignan announced that
their Heineken Cup quarter-final against Toulon would be
switched to Barcelona it seemed too good an opportunity not
to pop across the border from my French Pyrenean base and
sample what the Catalan heartland had to offer.
Hopes were high of a spectacle
to remember as I headed south-east in company with my wife
and young son in our 19-year-old Land Rover, but not in my
wildest dreams did I anticipate what greeted us at the
Estadi Olympic when we pitched up on Saturday afternoon.
The sky was a beautiful azure
blue, the heat beating unrelentingly down from a dominant
sun as the 'sang et orr' of Perpignan dominated the
coliseum-like stadium. The noise was simply deafening, the
colour spectacular and the overall atmosphere a heady
cocktail of celebration and anticipation.
Toulon brought their own
contingent of fans - they quickly sold all 6,000 of their
allocated tickets - and their star-studded squad even
briefly threatened to perform the mightiest of party
'poops', but ultimately the right winner emerged - not just
in terms of play on the day, but equally importantly for the
future growth of the game.
That may sound pretentious in
the extreme but taking a top-grade club rugby match to
Barcelona was unchartered territory - even if it was the
fulfillment of a life-long dream for Perpignan president
Paul Goze.
The scale of the challenge was
quick to ascertain after I arrived at my city centre hotel
and enquired about organizing a baby-sitter for my
seven-month-old son while the match was played.
"No problem," said the kindly
concierge as I explained my situation. "We'll organize it
for 7pm," he added, naturally assuming that I meant the
evening football match between Barcelona and UD Almeria.
"No, that's far too late, the
game starts at 4.30pm," I replied, to quizzical looks all
around.
To save further confusion I
spelled out the fact I was attending the RUGBY match between
Perpignan and Toulon at the city's famous Luis Campanys
Olympic Stadium, to which I got a kind of "whatever" shrug
of the shoulders and further bafflement.
It turned out the fully-booked
hotel was occupied almost exclusively by groups of men in
their 30s-40s, but that almost all were there to sample the
city's famous night life and to try and catch a glimpse of
Messi and company at the Camp Nou on Saturday evening. This
is the true challenge facing rugby fans in Barcelona, and
the game in general in Spain.
Football is king, with
basketball the prince. Rugby, by contrast, is a minority
sport.
And yet...
Come Saturday afternoon the
city was awash with 'sang et orr' as the Perpignan fans
began to emerge from their hideouts. Some 35,000 travelled
across the border from France, with 6,000 more journeying
from Toulon, but that still meant that 14,000 of the 55,000
sell-out had come from Barcelona itself. That's enough to
fill most Top 14 stadiums on their own, and how they must
have enjoyed it.
No segregation between the
fans, no fighting, just unadulterated enjoyment of the game
in hand. It wasn't a classic in terms of free-running rugby,
but it will go down as an historic occasion nonetheless as
Barcelona played glorious host to a match which turned out
to be an afternoon, evening and early morning of Catalan
celebration.
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Catalan joy: Perpignan players
soak up the
post-match party atmosphere in Barcelona
Photo:
Eoin Mundow/Cleva Media |
Toulon did their best to
silence the crowds, but this was not their day - and nor was
it meant to be. Saturday April 9th 2011 will go down as the
day Perpignan finally made it to their spiritual homeland.
Sunday April 10th 2011 will probably be remembered as the
day the hangover began to kick in.
The eventual match-winner was
the unlikely veteran prop Perry Freshwater, but perhaps it
was fitting that an outsider (an English-Kiwi adopted by the
Catalan faithful) should make the telling contribution. This
was his first try in eight years since joining Perpignan,
and the significance of his achievement wasn't lost on the
former Leicester and England front-rower.
"Ever since I've been at the
club the idea of getting a game in Barcelona has been the
whole goal. Barcelona, Barcelona, Barcelona... and it was a
fantastic occasion. But it wouldn't have been if we had
lost, and we could have," he said afterwards.
Freshwater the
unlikely hero as Perpignan pip Toulon
Defeat, glorious or not, would
have been the biggest of bummers for the swathes of Catalan
fans. A loss associated with the city, a dejection draped in
blood and gold. But they didn't lose, and the memory banks
will now be forever etched with victory, with sunshine, with
noise and celebration.
Indeed, for the last six
minutes, after Freshwater's try had secured the win, the
Estadi Olympic reverberated with a noise I have never
previously experienced in all my years as a sports
journalist. I've been to 100,000 strong football crowds,
60,000 sell-out cricket matches, but I have never witnessed
colour and volume on the scale I experienced in Barcelona.
The region's Sunday and Monday
sports pages remained dominated by football and basketball,
but for those 14,000 Barcelona-based fans, and the huge
travelling support, this will be remembered as the day the
Catalans' capital played glorious host to its rugby cousins.
Heineken Cup
2010/11 Results and Tables